Last, there are two sets of PE numbers for the depth markings.Ī very nice and comprehensive set which requires minimal surgery and yields great results. The set doesn't stop there- there is a complete set of add on parts for both deck guns, a replacement ladder and photoetch enhancements for the bottom flooding holes. There is new radar, stanchions for the CT railings and even the periscope. There are many parts requiring precise bends and a Etchmate or similar bender will really help. There are also parts to add detail to the drains, hatches, supports for the bell and lights and many others. The two largest parts are the conning tower decks. Much of the set modifies or replaces the conning tower. This set is similar to many other Eduard sets- many small, well detailed, relief etched parts. This includes one fret of relief engraved photoetch which provides added detail to the entire ship. It also comes in a very sturdy shipping package.įirst, we can take a look at the Gato Class detail set 53023. The normal retail for these is $114.85 so there is a very nice savings if you want to purchase the entire set. In this case, the three sets included in Big Ed are: Įduard's 'Big Ed' are combinations of other sets at a discounted price. One of their latest is the 'Big Ed' set for the Revell Gato Class sub which is reviewed here. While most people associate it with armor and aircraft, don't be fooled, their sets for ships are excellent. Web Site: Eduard makes the some of the finest PE in the world. If it's not working you can clean it all off, when you've applied you'll have up to 24 hrs at least to modify it before it dries.Reviewed By Dave Morrissette, IPMS# 33653 Try 3 oils - Mig Abteilung Indrustrial earth, Faded White and any Faded Grey - apply using the 'dot' method - i.e in very small amounts and experiment with scrubbing them in dry or streakingetc using VERY small amounts of white spirit. I thnk the Alclad is lacquer and wouldn't trust that with oils unless you tried it on a test piece first. I agree with Chris - Try oils, though as you are aware if you've used enamels such as Sovereign you'll need an acrylic top layer. The Tamiya weathering products are odd - I found them greasey - not quite pigments and not quite anything really It sounds like something is not right if the top surface of the varnish is still tacky? If I add a little Fairy (other dishwashing soap is available!) to the paint/water mix will this help out or just make it worse.Īny advise or tips or other methods will be greatly received.įWIW I found the Mig 'Rainmark effects' difficult to use. I have seen videos on YouTube of people using watered down acrylics which looks so easy to do but I just can't do it as the water just beads up on my gloss clear coat. I have tried using some Tamiya powder but the effect just doesn't look right to my eye, looks a bit clumpy and wondering if the apparent slight tackiness of my Alclad is the cause. I have some Mig Rainmark effects (Mig-1208) with which I am having limited joy with (this is just down to my inexperience, not the product!!) but my main issue is with trying to weather the large black expanse of the hull! Now when I have used it before it went off really quickly but for some reason seems dry but still a bit tacky and will leave finger prints if I hold it for too long! Not a great problem as I'll just wear gloves.

That was done midweek and has been in the house the last few days to dry.

I finished up painting my model and in readiness for weathering I put down a gloss clear coat of Alclad Klear Cote Gloss (ALC310-60). OK peoples, I need a little guidance/assistance.

1 72 gato submarine